Ales from The Dials

Ale pumps at The Good Companions

Real Ale has made a remarkable comeback in recent years, with increased demand from a new generation of young consumers transforming the drink's image. For whippets and flat caps now read pug dogs and ironic haircuts, as the once unthinkable is now official: ales are cool.

The return of bitters, milds and stouts in the UK has given rise to local 'microbreweries' who supply British taverns with regional beers; proud times indeed for the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA).

Formed  in 1971 to save ales from extinction, the group campaign towards their vision of pubs as 'centres of community life, the one place to consume real ale'. Brilliantly, CAMRA have devised a 'National Beer Scoring System' complete with scorecards, which my friend and I take along to The Good Companions, Seven Dials.

Unrecognisable since its refurb, the pub is now a true champion of the CAMRA cause. Staff member Julia Smith tells me the owners Indigo Leisure 'change their ales with the seasons and promote small, local breweries' ahead of established producers.

Shooting Star

Impressed by these values we get to work on the first round of the afternoon, marking our pints from 0 (undrinkable) to 5 (perfect). Shooting Star (3.8% volume) is light and frothy, yet despite delivering on its promise of 'toffee in the mouth' is rather lacklustre and one-dimensional, rating 2/5. Molly Malone's Stout (4.5%) brings an instant grimace to the face of my associate, who likens it to 'cold coffee and lemon'. Sadly I concur, and after struggling to the bottom of our glasses we have little option but to award 1/5.

Ruby

Looking dark and delicious beneath a perfect layer of white foam, Ruby (5.2%) was deservedly our pick of the day's selection. This beer instantly packs a punch, its caramel notes and full flavour making for a highly enjoyable pint; with a sumptuous aftertaste to boot, we score a commendable 3/5. CAMRA describe an 'average' ale as one drunk 'without really noticing', a fair description of Arundel Gold (4.2%). Amber-tinted and refreshing it is pleasant but ultimately doesn't inspire, thereby scoring 2/5.

Dark Star Hophead (3.8%) concludes the judging while we can still count to five. Sporting a great head, this golden ale rates highly in the image stakes; yet although it boasts honey and citrus flavours, our verdict is no more than a competent 2/5.

Our testing found these local brews to offer depth, flavour and a genuine alternative to continental lagers. Flowing freely from the pumps of quality bars, the humble beverage's star has never been higher; the real ale revolution continues apace.

For more information on the Campaign for Real Ale visit http://www.camra.org.uk/